Dark Circles: What Works and What's a Myth
· 7 min read
Ingredient guide · Element 12
Peptides
Peptides are short chains of amino acids that may signal skin to support collagen and firmness. Gentle, well tolerated, but evidence varies by peptide.
- Group
- Signal
- Effective %
- Varies by peptide (often 2–10% complexes)
- Working pH
- 5.0–7.0
- Use
- AM / PM
- Evidence
- Emerging
In plain English: Want gentle anti-ageing without the dryness of retinol? Peptides are a soft option. The results are subtle, but they suit sensitive skin and the area around your eyes.
Peptides are short chains of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins like collagen and elastin. Some peptides used in skincare act as messengers, signalling skin cells to produce more collagen; others help carry minerals or relax expression lines.
What they do
- Signal peptides (such as palmitoyl pentapeptide-4) may support collagen production.
- Carrier peptides (such as copper peptides) deliver trace minerals involved in repair.
- Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides are claimed to soften expression lines, with limited evidence.
How to use them
Apply a peptide serum or moisturiser after cleansing, morning or night. They are gentle and combine well with retinol for a stronger anti-ageing routine.
Who should use them
Anyone wanting gentle anti-ageing support, especially sensitive skin and the delicate under-eye area. See Dark Circles: What Works.
Frequently asked questions
Are peptides as good as retinol?
No. Retinol has far more evidence. Peptides are a gentle supporting ingredient, useful for sensitive skin or alongside retinol.
Do copper peptides work?
Copper peptides (GHK-Cu) have encouraging studies for skin repair and firmness, but avoid using them in the same layer as strong acids or vitamin C.
